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18 Mar 2008

 

http://www.smh.com.au/news/united-states/ghosts-of-the-past/2008/03/13/1205126091225.html

Sydney Morning Herald

Ghosts of the past

  • Island life ... Avalon.

Island life ... Avalon.
Photo: John Elk/Lonely Planet

Julie Miller is taken by the haunting beauty off California's coast.

The woman from the gift shop at Catalina Island's Casino is convinced the building is haunted. She animatedly tells me how, just two days earlier, a clock fell from the wall of the shop for no reason. She then launches into other tales of the unexpected from the building's history: of the hapless worker trapped in cement during construction of the Art Deco masterpiece; of a pipe organ playing on its own; and of a period-clad apparition disappearing through the wall near the popcorn machine. All proof, Lynette believes, that this landmark is an epicentre of paranormal activity on an island crawling with phantoms.

Just an hour's ferry ride from Long Beach, Los Angeles, Santa Catalina Island is a Mediterranean-style retreat that provides a welcome escape from the madness of Tinseltown. Once the playground of the rich and famous, it now attracts tourists in search of a fun daytrip or tranquil weekend away, a place with a quite different view of the Californian lifestyle.

Gorgeous as it is, however, there is admittedly something a little eerie about this island. Catalina - and in particular its main port of Avalon - feels trapped in time, a vestige of a once-glorious past. And as the chilling Pacific fog rolls in, as it does on a regular basis, shrouding the dramatic coastline in white, it's easy to understand why so many believe the island is the haunt of entities other than just tourists.

Catalina had been occupied for thousands of years by Native Americans but its modern history began 150 years ago when tourists began discovering "the Capri of the West". In the 1920s, the island was purchased by the chewing gum magnate William Wrigley jnr, who built roads, constructed hotels and shops and erected the $2 million dance pavilion known as the Casino (a misnomer, as gambling was banned in the building). Wrigley also brought his baseball team, the Chicago Cubs, over for spring training, placing the island in the social spotlight for the first time.

During its heyday, Catalina was where Hollywood came to play. Western novelist Zane Grey had a home here; Charlie Chaplin and his wife Paulette Goddard were frequent visitors; while movie director Cecil B. De Mille said Catalina was "the only place where I can get away to work amid real inspiration". The Casino Ballroom, which held 3000 patrons, drew big name bands led by Glen Miller, Bennie Goodman, Ray Noble and Jan Garber and it became the hub of Hollywood nightlife.



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